どうやって選べばいい?今さら聞けないスーツの選び方を徹底解説

社会人になると、仕事や冠婚葬祭などさまざまな場面でスーツを着る機会が増えていきます。

しかし、細部まで気にしてスーツを選んでいる人はそれほど多くありません。スーツの選び方を間違えると見映えが悪くなるばかりでなく、型が崩れやすくなるなどのデメリットも出てきます。

だらしない印象を与えてしまいかねませんので、自分に合ったスーツを慎重に選ぶよう心がけましょう。

また、スーツを選ぶ際には季節感を意識するなどの注意も必要です。

この記事では、大人に相応しいスーツスタイルを実現するための、スーツの選び方を紹介します。

スーツ選びでチェックする項目

スーツを選ぶ際にはまず「色」に注目します。スーツの色でもっとも無難とされているのは「黒」です。

黒いスーツはビジネスシーンのほか、外出時や冠婚葬祭にも応用が効くので、誰もが一着は所持しておきたい種類です。

そのほか、紺やグレーなどの寒色系はフォーマルな印象を与えるので、持っておくと便利といえます。

一方、シルバーやホワイトなどのスーツはパーティーシーンなどを除いてあまり着用する機会がありません。

パステルカラーも同様に、場から浮いてしまう恐れがあります。普段使いのカラーとしてはおすすめできません。

続いて、「着丈の長さ」も大切なポイントです。

着丈とは、スーツ後方の襟元から裾の先までを指す言葉です。着丈が短すぎると不恰好ですし、長すぎてもだらしない印象を与えます。スーツを選ぶときはぜひ店頭で試着してみてください。

また、「ジャケットの肩部分」も見落としやすい箇所です。

肩はスーツの中でも形が崩れやすいので、肩幅にぴったり来るサイズを選ぶ必要があります。試着の際はボタンを着けた状態、外した状態の両方でサイズを確認しましょう。

「袖丈」もまた、スーツを着こなすためには注意したいポイントです。袖丈では「長さ」と「太さ」に気をつけながら測っていきます。ジャケットを羽織ったとき、腕をしっかり伸ばして袖丈を確認しましょう。袖丈が太すぎると違和感を覚えますが、細すぎても腕を動かしづらくなります。

サイズ感の合っているスーツには、耐久性を高める効果もあります。

スーツのサイズ選びのポイント

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気に入ったデザインのスーツを見つけたら、寸法に入っていきます。

スーツを実際に試着し、しっくり来るサイズを確かめましょう。また、スーツのブランドによって、微妙なサイズ感の際は発生します。新しくスーツを買うときは、その都度サイズを測りなおしましょう。

スーツの試着ではワイシャツを持参するのがおすすめです。ワイシャツの上からスーツを羽織ってこそ、実際のサイズが分かります。

ワイシャツがどのように見えるかは、スーツスタイルのビジュアルを決定します。ワイシャツの襟がスーツからはみ出してしまうと不恰好に映るでしょう。ワイシャツの襟はスーツの襟に軽く触れるくらいがベストです。また、腕を下に伸ばしたとき、少しだけシャツが見えるのも袖のサイズが合っているサインです。

スーツのサイズは「シワが寄らない」「きつくなりすぎない」などのポイントから判断します。着丈にシワが寄っているのは、サイズ感が大きすぎる証です。一方、ボタンを綴じたときにスーツがシャツとぴったりくっついてしてしまうのも理想的なサイズではありません。スーツとシャツの間に握り拳が割り込めるくらいのサイズ感を選びましょう。

そのほか、スーツのサイズは身長とウエストの兼ね合いから選ぶのが正しい方法です。2つの数値を正しく計測したうえで、スーツ選びに活かしましょう。

スーツ選びの注意点

スーツを選ぶ際は、「季節感」を意識しましょう。季節感を演出するためには、まず「色」にこだわりましょう。夏場は涼しげな寒色を基調にし、冬場では逆に暖色を取り入れます。黒のスーツスタイルは1年中着こなせるオーソドックスな色調ですが、夏場では暑苦しく見えがちです。夏には淡いグレーなども取り入れていいでしょう。

次に、スーツの生地の変化です。冬場は厚手のジャケットが似合いますが、夏場では季節感にマッチしません。生地の通気性も重要です。多くの人が少ない枚数のスーツを着まわしているため、スーツが傷みやすい傾向があります。通気性の悪いスーツはダメージをエスカレートさせてしまい、耐久力が低くなります。夏場では、汗を大量にかいてしまうなどの弊害も出るでしょう。

また、スーツ生地の素材にもたくさんの種類があるので、違いを覚えておくとスーツの選び方にもバリエーションが生まれます。

スーツ生地の素材では「ウール」と「ポリエステル」が有名です。一般的にウール生地は高級感があるかわりに、傷みやすいといわれています。ポリエステルは頑丈ですが、一度シワがついたら直りにくい特徴があります。ウールとポリエステルをかけ合せたスーツも販売されています。コンパクトで身軽な着心地を感じたいなら、麻生地もおすすめです。

選び方のポイントを押さえてベストなものにしよう

美しくスーツを着こなせると、周囲からの見え方が変わります。上司や顧客からも頼もしく映るため、社会人としてはスーツスタイルにこだわりを持ちたいところです。また、スーツを長持ちさせるためにも生地や着こなしの知識は身につけておくのが大切です。

サイズ・デザイン共にポイントを押さえて、自分に合うスーツを選び出しましょう。

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