一歩間違えるとダサくなる!ワイシャツをおしゃれに着こなしたい

ビジネスパーソンなら、ワイシャツをおしゃれに着こなしたいと、誰しも思うことでしょう。

しかし、一歩間違えるとダサくなってしまうこともあります。ワイシャツをスマートにスタイリッシュに着こなすためには、押さえておくべきポイントがいくつかあります。

ここでは、ワイシャツの生地の種類、ジャストフィットのサイズの測り方、フォーマル度に応じたシャツの選択などを説明します。

また、休日のスタイルでもシャツを上手に着こなしたいものです。そこで、休日のコーディネートにぴったりのシャツの種類や柄を紹介します。

今よりシャツをおしゃれに着こなし、コーディネートの幅を広げましょう。

メンズシャツの種類について知っておきたい

メンズシャツの種類の分類方法はいろいろありますが、代表的な1つが生地による分類です。

ブロードシャツは縦糸と横糸に同じ太さの糸を使い、縦糸の密度を横糸の密度の倍程度にしています。

この織り方によって、表面に光沢がなめらかに出るのが特徴です。

清潔で上品な印象を与えることから、ビジネスシーンやフォーマルシーンなどのワイシャツとして最もよく使われる種類の生地です。

なお、糸には番手といわれるものがあり、細い糸ほど一般的に高級です。

そして、番手が高い糸で織られたブロードシャツになるほど光沢感が増し、上質な高級感が醸し出されます。

オックスフォードシャツは、縦糸と横糸を2本ずつ引きそろえて織られた生地です。

この織り方により、比較的厚手ではっきりした織目ができます。丈夫で通気性のよいのが特徴です。

そのため、クールビズなどでよく着られるボタンダウンシャツによく使われます。

ただし、カジュアルな印象が強くなるため、シーンを選んで着たいところです。

カジュアルなシャツには、ストライプやギンガムチェックの柄のシャツもあります。

いわゆる「白シャツ」など無地のものだけでは、カジュアル感や華やかさなどは出しにくいため、こうした柄のメンズシャツもコーディネートに取り入れましょう。

 

ワイシャツをおしゃれに着こなしたい!押さえるべきポイント

ワイシャツを上手に着こなすうえで大切なポイントは、まず、自分の体に合ったサイズを選んでいるかということです。

首回りと裄丈のサイズは、年齢とともに変わることもあるため、ワイシャツの購入前にサイズを測っておきましょう。

首回りは、首の外周に1.5cmを足したサイズがジャストフィットです。裄丈は、首の中心・肩の先・親指のつけ根を結んだ点で測ります。

ベストのサイズは、ワイシャツの手首のボタンを外したときに、袖の先が親指の付け根に触れる程度です。日本人は、少し大きなサイズのワイシャツを選ぶ傾向があります。

やや窮屈に感じるかもしれませんが、ワイシャツをおしゃれに着こなすには上記のサイズがぴったりなので、自分の着ているワイシャツがベストサイズかどうか、一度チェックしてみてはどうでしょうか。

また、着用するシーンに合わせてワイシャツを選ぶことも大切です。

代表的な4種類の生地をフォーマル度が高い順に並べると、ブロードクロス・ツイル・シャンブレイ・オックスフォードです。ビジネスシーンと一口にいっても、自分が勤めている会社や取引先の会社、プレゼンテーションなどさまざまなシーンがあります。着用するシーンによってワイシャツを選ぶことが大切です。

また、ネクタイの有無によってもシャツの種類を選べます。クールビズやノーネクタイではボタンシャツを選ぶのもよいでしょう。

フォーマルな場ではNGですが、カジュアルさやスポーティな印象が出せます。また、体形によってシャツの種類を選択するのも重要です。

たとえば、ワイドカラーのワイシャツは首回りがすっきり見える効果があります。自分の体形の悩みを上手にカバーするようなワイシャツを選んでみてはどうでしょうか。

 

シャツのシルエットで印象が変わる

シャツのコーディネートにはシルエットを選ぶことも大切です。肩幅や胴回りにゆとりがあるタイプは、標準体とも呼ばれます。

昔から人気があるシャツであり、シーンを選ばずクラシックな印象を与えられるシャツといえます。

これよりさらに大きなサイズは、窮屈なシャツを着用するのが苦手という人のためのものといえるでしょう。

細身体と呼ばれるシャツは、肩幅や胸、ウエスト回りを細目にとり、襟も小さくしているのが基本です。

肩やウエストがスリムに締まったシルエットは、スーツのインナーであるワイシャツとしてよく着用されます。

また、クールビズシーンにも細身体のシャツが向いています。ゆとりがあるシャツでは、だらしなく見えやすいのがクールビズのスタイルなので、細身体のシャツを選びましょう。

カジュアルに崩してもかまわないと思いがちなクールビズですが、一歩間違えるとダサいという印象を持たれてしまうので注意が必要です。

色や柄は別として、シルエットはきっちりとした細見体がベターです。

半袖の場合、ゆとりのあるシルエットのシャツでは腕が細く見えて頼りない印象を与えてしまうこともあります。

 

休日スタイルならノーカラーもおすすめ

休日に、大人の雰囲気を保ちつつカジュアル感を出せるのが、ノーカラーシャツ、バンドカラーシャツと呼ばれるシャツです。

スタンドカラーシャツと呼ぶこともあります。これらは襟のないシャツのことで、シャツなのに手軽にカジュアルダウンできて休日感を出せるため、愛用している人もたくさんいます。

ノーカラーシャツなどは、体のラインをきれいに見せてくれる効果もあります。

ハリのあるシャツを選べば、華奢な体をカバーしてくれるため、休日はTシャツよりノーカラーシャツを選ぶという人もいます。

逆に、ぽっこりしたおなかが少し気になるという人にもノーカラーシャツなどがぴったりです。

体のラインをすっきりさせてくれるため、カジュアルでありながら、だらしない印象が出ません。

また、ギンガムチェックやタータンチェックはジーンズとよく合います。

ギンガムチェックは夏の柄、タータンチェックは秋冬の柄などとも言われます。柄によって、手軽で上手に季節感を取り入れられるので、何枚か持っておくと重宝するでしょう。

 

ワイシャツをスマートに着こなしてスーツスタイルを格上げ

 

ワイシャツをスマートに着こなせば、周囲の好感度もあがりますし、着ている自分も気持ちがよくなります。

生地の種類、シルエットのタイプ、柄などを上手に組み合わせるとコーディネートの幅も広がります。

上手にシャツを選んで、おしゃれに着こなしてはどうでしょうか。

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